Jackie and Nicky Varnam have kept Garland’s Seafood near Varnamtown alive and thriving for the past 40 years, as the seafood market marks its 70th year in business this month.
Garland’s Seafood, located at 2 Fisherman Road in Supply, has been open for seven decades and survived several hurricanes, tropical storms, the Covid-19 pandemic and the changing seafood industry. All sorts of seafood from Garland’s, including Carolina shrimp, are available for wholesale and retail customers to purchase.
Brunswick County local Wesley “Honey” Garland Varnam opened his Lockwood Folly River-side seafood business in 1954. Shortly after opening, Hurricane Hazel hit the area in October 1954 and destroyed the building, along with much of the county.
Hurricane Hazel pushed the fish house into marshes, said Nicky Varnam, who is Honey’s son.
After the hurricane, Honey worked at Sunny Point Army Depot until he saved enough money to rebuild his business, according to Honey’s biography written by family members and available on BrunswickCatch.com.
Jackie Varnam, Nicky’s wife, said her father-in-law was known for greeting everyone by calling them “honey.” His welcome was so well known with customers that they often referred to the business as “Honey’s Place.”
“He called everybody ‘honey’ because he couldn’t remember names,” Jackie Varnam said.
Honey loved painting shrimp and shrimp boats, Jackie Varnam said. His artwork and handmade signs are scattered throughout the market. Several of his works and other items from the store were also used in the Nicholas Sparks’s movie, “Safe Haven,” she noted.
At 12-years-old, Nicky Varnam began shrimping to help his dad. He said he started with only a 25-foot net and 16-foot wooden skiff boat built by Wendy and Russell Hewett of Supply’s Windy Point.
Russell Hewett died before the skiff was completed, so Wendy Hewett finished building it, Nicky Varnam said.
Through these early years of shrimping, he discovered a love for working on the ocean and ended up doing the work on and off for nearly 10 years, Nicky Varnam said. “By 18, I told my daddy I wanted a shrimp boat.”
Several shrimp trawlers were built locally for Nicky Varnam, each one larger than the last. Two of the shrimp trawlers were named after his daughters — Chandee and Chan-Dana.
The Varnam’s took over Honey’s busy business in 1984 after Honey became ill and eventually died of cancer. Nicky runs the daily operations, including unloading boats, sizing, pricing and packing the seafood while Jackie manages office duties.
Jackie Varnam said Garland’s Seafood eventually was incorporated as Garland’s Fresh Seafood, Inc.
Asked what it means for the seafood market to stay in business for seven decades, Jackie Varnam said, “It means you’ve done a fantastic job providing for your customers.”
The couple had big shoes to fill after Honey died, Jackie Varnam said. “It’s been a livelihood. … You had to jump in hands and feet to keep this business going,” she said, noting the experience has a complete turnaround from her previous responsibilities as a housewife.
Similar to his wife’s career transition, Nicky Varnam said transitioning from working on the water to working in the seafood market was a challenge. He said he went crazy because he yearned to be back out on the ocean.
Retirement is coming into view for Nicky Varnam following his 80th birthday in September, he said.
The Varnams see the business continuing to provide folks with fresh seafood for another 70 years, but the couple said the future proprietor must be passionate and invested in the business to keep Garland’s Seafood alive.
“You gotta love it,” Jackie Varnam added.
The two shared some of the difficulties that come with owning a seafood business, the biggest challenge being stagnant market prices and low profits.
As prices of gas, labor, food, fish, among other commodities, continue to rise, Jackie Varnam said the price of shrimp has plateaued over the years. She has kept a list of shrimp prices over the years, explaining the current cost is roughly the same or less than past prices.
There is also a need for shrimpers, Nicky explained. Despite the need, he said the costs of fuel, boats, nets and other related expenses continue to rise. Owning a fresh shrimp business is no longer profitable, he added.
“Shrimpin’ has got so bad the last 20 years,” Nicky Varnam said. “Farm-raised shrimp just drove the prices right on down with commercial fishermen.”
Not all the seafood sold at Garland’s is locally sourced due to regulations and seasonal availability but, Jackie said, they work hard to provide fresh seafood. “We always believe in quality seafood,” she said.
The Varnams have overcome professional and market challenges, natural disasters and so much more over the past 40 years to keep Honey’s Place alive. Customers can even see the water line markings of Hurricane’s Matthew, Ian and Isaias.
“All the years we’ve been here, though, those are the only three that the water came in,” Jackie Varnam said.
Interacting with the customers is Jackie’s favorite part of the business, she said, noting some customers and their families have been shopping at Garland’s Fresh Seafood for many years.
Garland’s Fresh Seafood is not for sale nor closing. However, the Varnams said their family members have chosen different career paths and they will eventually need someone else to take over and run the market.
“I hope someone comes in and continues the business and the service to all of our customers,” Jackie Varnam said.
For more information about the history of Honey’s Place, go to https://brunswickcatch.com/taste-history-3/.
